A sharp warning rings out as Akumbu Jones calls time on the unchecked misuse of the Atogho design, outlining the legal push, the cultural stakes and the fight to protect the mothers whose craft sustains this Grassfields treasure.
Hilltopvoices: What pushed Black Swagger Inc to act at this moment?
Akumbu Jones: Black Swagger Inc’s mission is to promote, protect and create fair economic opportunities for people in the cultural and creative industries. The behaviour of those exploiting the Atogho has become strategic, immoral and unjust. They enrich themselves while the mothers who produce this fabric go home with almost nothing. Someone had to speak up. I have worked in this sector, I have seen the injustices and felt them. Watching others make huge profits from people’s sweat is disheartening. Black Swagger Inc was also a strategic partner of the Atogho Fashion Festival, where I served as Festival Director. With guidance from Prof Nganzi Theodore of the National Institute of Arts in Congo, whom I brought in as facilitator, we gained deeper knowledge on intellectual property and Geographical Indications. It became clear that something was seriously wrong.
Hilltopvoices: How serious is the misuse of the Atogho design and what harm has it caused?
Akumbu Jones: It devalues the Atogho. It reduces the economic worth of a textile that represents the hard work of Grassfields artisans. There is serious economic capture by unscrupulous operators who exploit a fabric that sits at the soul of the Grassfields people. We cannot remain silent. We must act, and act in the best interest of the local embroidery community, many of whom may not fully understand the harm being done.
Hilltopvoices: What do you expect the legal action to achieve?
Akumbu Jones: First, formal recognition that Atogho belongs to the Grassfields people. Second, compensation for the local embroidery community. And third, a strong warning to anyone planning to exploit it in the future.
Hilltopvoices: Why is Geographical Indication status important for this textile?
Akumbu Jones: Geographical Indication is essential for Atogho because it protects traditional knowledge and the practices of local communities. It boosts economic value, improves market access and creates opportunities for producers. It preserves cultural heritage by acknowledging Atogho’s deep connection to the Grassfields. It guarantees quality and authenticity and shields consumers from counterfeits. GI protection also contributes to sustainable development and community empowerment. It can even boost tourism. Look at Ghana, where the Kente attracts global stars and strengthens ties with the diaspora. If Atogho gains the same recognition, people will come here to meet the mothers who make it, not machines in China.
Akumbu Jones: They will increase sales, bring recognition to the artisans’ work and create employment opportunities, especially for young people studying tourism and leisure. When I visited the University of Bamenda, I saw many students in tourism programmes. Where will they work if these opportunities are taken away?
Hilltopvoices: What level of support are you receiving from government and cultural bodies?
Akumbu Jones: We have a strong working relationship with government on this. It is a win for all sides. Protecting Atogho enhances the country’s image in international spaces. We are collaborating with leading embroidery and fashion groups, including the North West Fashion Designers Association led by Mrs Vumomsi Ngwefonta’a. We are also working with the Regional and Divisional Delegations of Arts and Culture under the leadership of Mrs Caroline Ngeloh.
Hilltopvoices: What message do you want the public and businesses to take from this campaign?
Akumbu Jones: Atogho is a people’s heritage, their journey and their truth. We must not trample on it. I urge the public to wear Atogho proudly, but wear the authentic fabric and avoid the fake Chinese prints. They distort who we are. We are a people of dignity, and our heritage must be respected.
By Hilltopvoices Online
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